The company is now undergoing a considerable expansion that will result in a wider range of products, reaching new and previously untapped markets.

Having recognized the huge potential of the pure skincare brand, a group of experience entrepreneurial investors has now committed the funds required to take Saaf to the next level.

A small but experienced team has thus been crafted comprised of individuals with expertise in specialist sectors such as sales & marketing, intellectual property, finance, and global channels distribution. This team will now work alongside Dr Mah to complement her in-depth homeopathic and pharmacological knowledge and ability to formulate natural botanicals.

This astute combination of skills will aim to fully exploit consumer interest in Saaf as a premium, niche skincare brand. The Saaf investment programme and subsequent expansion is being led by Peter Whitehurst and Colin Wright. Peter is drawing upon his experience and contact network developed through his role as Director of Innovation and Technology at British healthcare manufacturer, SSL International. As a serial entrepreneur, Colin is already Chair and Investor in a number of small companies.

Joining Peter and Colin is Carla Smith as Head of Sales & Marketing. Carla is experienced in leading brand development within the healthcare sector, having previously handled SSL International’s product range within its export markets.

Dr Mah remains at the forefront of the company’s future product development in her capacity as Technical Director.

For enquiries please contact Carla Smith – carla@saafinternational.com

www.saafskincare.com

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Heggy Kearens was totally determined when she posted a status update on her Facebook wall questioning the motivations of some of her more pious friends.

They had recently joined a multi-level marketing scheme to sell a popular Swedish cosmetics brand distributed here. According to Heggy, two issues bothered her: First, there is the fact that the brand has no halal label on its products; second, she believes the whole concept of multi-level marketing is still a  “grey zone” in terms of Islam because it allows one to profit from the labor of others.

So, the 25-year-old graduate student steamed ahead with her Facebook campaign. She wrote on her status message: “I am questioning the halal status of [the brand]. I know many of my friends are selling these products but according to twitter account @halalcorner, these products are not halal. My dear friends, please be careful, for the halal status, we can check them through halalmui.org.”

After that, she was barraged with comments from her friends, some of whom supported her concerns, while others disagreed. Some of the blowback came in the form of what she called “unpleasant” e-mails. She said she also got a few kicks on her twitter account.

“I intentionally posted that status because I know for a fact that many of my friends who were extremely devoted to Islam during college are now selling these products, which is an irony, because those products have no halal label.” It’s just too easy to swing away from being pious just for economic reasons, she said.

“We are talking about people who used to refuse to eat in a restaurant without a halal certificate,” Heggy said, adding that as a Muslim herself, she cares about using halal products, although she does not take the issue to extremes.

Is it Halal?

The halal label, of course, is used worldwide, but mostly in Muslim countries to ensure that the food and drink — and even cosmetics —that consumers are buying was made in accordance with Islamic law. In Indonesia, the label is meant to show that the product has been certified by the Indonesia Ulema Council’s (MUI) food and drug monitoring body to contain no traces of pork or alcohol.

The designation is also supposed to certify that animals used for food are slaughtered in accordance with Islamic law — with the animal dying immediately, the blood being drained away and the process dedicated to Allah. In the case of cosmetics, they should use plant extracts and minerals instead of alcohol and animal products, a particular concern since many cosmetics use rendered animal fats and swine placenta.

For some Indonesian Muslims, the voluntary halal label is the determining factor in their decision about whether to eat at a certain restaurant or buy particular products.  For some international companies working in Indonesia, having the label is also crucial for selling their products because almost 90 percent of the population is Muslim, making it the world’s most populous Muslim country.

One of them, is Bilma Yulita, a mother of two daughters who lives in Jakarta. Bilma is a devout Muslim who believes that the halal label is an absolute necessity she must take into consideration before deciding to use a product, whether it be food or cosmetics.

“The halal label is my first sensor in choosing any product, and I teach my children to do the same,” she said, adding that her oldest daughter — who is now 8 years old — seems to have absorbed the lesson early because she is aware of the label and also refuses to consume products without the halal label.

“When she was in kindergarten, someone offered her food without the halal label, and she told me, ‘Mama I don’t want this.’ I was touched,” Bilma said.

For exactly the same reason, a year ago, Bilma stopped buying the Oriflame products that she had been using since 2008. “I heard that it had no halal label and so I stopped buying it,” she said. “I honestly think that MUI should label everything, so that Muslims can be free from doubt over what they use.

Indonesia’s Ministry of Religious Affairs introduced the halal certificate in 1994 and it has granted thousands of certificates since then for various types of food, beverages, and cosmetics. But MUI officials estimate that less than 15 percent of all products sold in the country have the halal label. The head of MUI’s Halal Assurance Division, Muslich, said food and beverage companies are more eager to get certification than cosmetic or drug firms,  less than 10 percent of which seek out halal status.

Why Bother?

While some embrace the label as a matter of devotion to Islam, others consider the whole concept an extra chore and  choose to ignore it. “I don’t care about the halal label and I don’t understand why some people would make a fuss about it and make their life more difficult,” said Andina Mustika Ayu, a graduate student at the University of Indonesia, shrugging her shoulders.

“I have tried halal cosmetics, but they are just not that good,” she added. Although a Muslim, Andina thinks the label is more political and business oriented, and as such, the MUI should stick to just labeling things that are forbidden.

Amidhan, the head of MUI, said despite growing public awareness of the label, the agency needs a legal umbrella to require all companies to put it on their products.

“The halal bill is still in the parliament. Some support it, but many oppose it,” he said. If the bill is passed, then all products produced and circulated in Indonesia would need halal certification before being allowed in the market — a step which would be unusual for a secular country.

Currently, MUI uses the Assessment Institute for Food, Drugs and Cosmetics and the body’s Fatwa Commission to certify products halal. The process lasts around two months and requires the inspection of a company’s ingredients, production, storage, display, packaging and transportation.

Selling Point

The cost? Companies pay between Rp 500,000 and Rp 4.5 million for a two-year certification — a modest sum that many companies will likely continue to see value in as a way to show respect for Muslims.

“I think companies should consider this an extra selling point instead of a burden,” said Amidhan. “We advise companies to put the halal certification fee in their promotional budgets.”
The importance of halal labels is not likely to go away anytime soon. The emergence of fake halal labels brought a flurry of complaints to the MUI body, which says it will install an sms hotline so consumers can check if a product is really halal.

“Now, if a company is faking its halal certification, the punishment is Rp 2 billion, or up to 5 years in jail,” Amidhan said.

But the option to follow halal guidelines, of course, goes back to the individual. In this case, Heggy Kearens agreed. “I care about it, but it’s a personal choice,” she said.

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Islamic Development Department (Jakim) Halal Hub officer Nur Aniqah Amin said many pharmaceutical and health products not approved by the government with questionable halal status were in the market.

“There are heaps of imported pharmaceutical products in the market, including cosmetics, which are not halal so Jakim through its Halal Pharmaceutical Concept, has outlined various aspects which need to be adhered to by manufacturing companies.

“This covers management, raw material, packaging and storage to avoid mixing with non-halal elements,” she said at a seminar on pharmaceutical and health products at the National Mosque, here.

Meanwhile, Syed Fadli Sailudin, senior principal assistant director of the Kuala Lumpur Health Department Pharmacy Division, said almost 3,000 tonnes of gelatine were produced worldwide each year but not all of it was derived from pork.

“To prevent consumers from being cheated, the ministry has made it compulsory for local and foreign companies to list the ingredients of their products before they can sell them in Malaysia,” he added.

– BERNAMA

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Pure Halal Beauty, a store dedicated solely to Halal Certified and Vegan Registered beauty products, opened its doors last Christmas in Birmingham’s Pavilions Shopping Centre. Now less than a year after opening the business is booming.

Rose’s dedication to providing the best Halal Certified beauty products has led her to create her own range “The PHB Collection.” Her collection has nearly 80 unique cosmetic and skincare products and is hand-made in the UK using the finest, all natural ingredients and eco-friendly packaging.

Rose says the response to her new range has been overwhelming, “People have been really positive. I have had support and encouragement from around the country (through our website) from people who are so happy to have found us. Muslims, vegans and vegetarians love our products because they don’t conflict with their personal and religious beliefs. Our products also appeal to the conscious consumer who’s looking for chemical-free beauty products. People who want to use natural, ethical and beneficial beauty products are always so pleased with our phenomenal range as well as our extremely affordable prices!”

As well as launching her PHB Collection, Rose has teamed up with City College Birmingham to offer apprenticeships to young students. “This time last year I was a student myself so I understand how difficult it is for young people trying to find work. I’m really pleased to be able to offer students the opportunity to gain vital work experience with Pure Halal Beauty.”

While many people would baulk at the idea of setting up a business in the current climate Rose welcomes the challenge, “Some people think I’m crazy(!) but I have great belief in the products I’m selling and the prospects for expansion are looking very promising.”

“Pure Halal Beauty – Where Beauty and Belief Co-exist”

The new PHB ranges are available to customers worldwide at www.purehalalbeauty.com and in-store at Level 2, The Pavilions Shopping Centre, Birmingham, UK.

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Bandar Seri Begawan – An expert in Halal cosmetics Science and technology from Japan has said that Brunei has the potential to develop its own Halal cosmetics industry.

Mr Tenji Takahashi, Deputy General Manager for Research and Development at Reinhalt Corporation, Japan said Brunei is an ideal place for such an endeavour in Halal cosmetics as the nation makes it a national project to certify and thus guarantee that certain products are indeed Halal. It is accepted not only by Bruneians but also Muslims from other countries, he added.

Mr Takahashi stated this while presenting his working paper entitled “Halal Cosmetics: An Expert’s View and Recommendations for the Brunei’s Initiatives” in a seminar held at the Radisson Hotel in the capital. The half-day seminar was organised by the Ministry of Industry and Primary Resources through the Department of Agriculture and Agrifood.

He said Brunei’s location is superior with the presence of a large Muslim market all over the world and is in an advantageous position to implement the Halal guidelines prepared and approved by the domestic law.

The deputy general manager added that the Brunei Halal Brand, along with high technology and quality from Japan, could be used to produce innovative and science-based cosmetics preferred by Muslims. As for the procurement of the variety of Halal-certified ingredients, Mr Takahashi proposed to make a non-disclosure agreement, create a system of licensing and reduce the financial burden for the supplier.

He also highlighted the principles of Halal cosmetics in Brunei, namely the production of Halal cosmetics for all Muslims without prioritising productivity or profit. Manufacturers must also show the highest product performance in terms of providing information on Halal-certified ingredients, and on the manufacturing and transportation processes, so as to ensure that the product is not detrimental to Muslims.

The seminar was aimed at increasing knowledge and awareness on advancements in Halal science and technology in the cosmetics industry and at applying these advancements to the development of the Halal cosmetics industry in the Sultanate. It was also hoped that it would promote awareness on the latest developments in the manufacturing and handling of cosmetics and the sharing of information and experience in the field of Halal science and technology.

Present as guest of honour at the seminar was Hjh Normah Suria Hayati binti Pehin Jawatan Dalam Seri Maharaja Dato Seri Utama (Dr) Hj Awg Mohd Jamil Al-Sufri, Permanent Secretary at the Ministry of Industry and Primary Resources.

Mr Takahashi also discussed how modern science-based cosmetics could be deemed non-Halal for Muslims, as would be the case with cosmetics products that contain animal collagen (protein).

The Halal cosmetics business has to overcome many obstacles, he said. Information on product labels are not enough and, in some cases, usually the required information relevant to the “Halalness” of the product is not inscribed on the product label, even though it is eventually found not to contain any ethanol, pig placenta extract or animal collagen.

In most cases, the origins of raw materials are not indicated, Mr Takahashi added. Collagen could come from fish or plant extract, for instance, and ethanol could have been used to extract the ingredient of aloe. Ethanol might also have been used as the preservative of the extract.

Southeast Asian nations are promoting industrialisation in a way that it focuses on product manufacturing, thereby resulting in economic development in recent years, said Mr Takahashi.

In Asean, the purchasing capacity is also getting higher and many companies are interested in entering the booming Islamic market. However the issue is that they are not knowledgeable in the field, nor are they familiar with the Halal regulations, he added.

Also present at the seminar were Dyg Hjh Hasnah binti Ibrahim, Deputy Permanent Secretary at the Ministry of Industry and Primary Resources and senior government officers from the Prime Minister’s Office, Ministry of Health, Ministry of Industry and Primary Resources, Ministry of Religious Affairs, and other government agencies.

–Courtesy of Borneo Bulletin

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The latest in green cosmetics comes from the ancient Islamic tradition of halal.The word halal, is Arabic for permissible and is often used to describe meat slaughtered and prepared in line with Islamic law. Halal cosmetics are made without alcohol and pork ingredients both of which are banned in Islam but are often found in cosmetics. Halal beauty products, make up $500m of the $2trn global halal market and are made using plants and minerals that mirrors the trend for ethical beauty products.

Although halal products have been around for a few years, a recent report has shown that the market is set to grow. Amys Group based out of Morocco is one of the key players in the industry.Its range is made in the Atlas mountains and includes exfoliating scrubs and hammam oils. The group plans to expand in the Gulf Arab region, Malaysia, Britain, the United States, France and Japan in the next three years, and is targeting 20% annual profit growth over the next five years.

Last year UK-based Samina Akhter set up her Samina Pure Make-up range of halal cosmetics. It isthe first company in the UK to sell halal certified make-up.Halal Cosmetics Jordan is one of the leading skin care manufacturers using minerals from the Dead Sea.Almaas Halal Cosmetics is another company which is Australian based that supplied certified halal cosmetics.

Layla Mandi who is a Canadian make-up artist can be said to be the pioneer of halal makeup. She developed her OnePure range of products to give Muslim women the choice to having halal certified products.OnePure products are certified in Malaysia by an Islamic body that also certifies meats and other consumer goods for Muslims.She is currently looking for a partner to increase the brand’s profile in the Gulf. OnePure currently retails in Dubai as well as in Egypt, Canada and on Saudi Arabian Airlines.

The scope of growth for halal products are huge in spite of certifying difficulties. There are 139 certifying bodies and there is no global standard for halal products due to varying interpretation of the Quran. Additionally many scholars feel that regular cosmetics are permissible even if they contain questionable ingredients because they are not consumed. Others feel that the word ‘halal’ has become a marketing term rather than strictly religious.

Although these are obvious pitfalls in the uptake of halal cosmetics many multi-nationals have started to cache in to the potential market. Colgate-Palmolive already makes oral care products, such as toothpaste and mouthwash, with a halal stamp.Halal food and drinks account for $5.2 billion or 5 % of Nestle’s annual sales worldwide, suggesting that there is potential for growth and expansion into other sectors.

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The Director of LPPOM MUI, Ir. Lukmanul Hakim, M.Si., adding that in the recent progress and developments, there have been many countries recognizing and receiving Halal Fatwa by MUI. Among them are the countries in Middle East region, such as the United Arab Emirates (UAE), which previously did not care about halal certification.

“Turkey, a secular State, which was originally strictly prohibited nuanced symbols of religion, including Islamic symbols, now has also recognized halal certification of MUI”, said Lukmanul Hakim.

Some time ago, the Director of LPPOM MUI and some leaders of MUI had been invited to Dubai, UAE, to make presentations and discuss various aspects of halal certification which have been conducting MUI so far.

In addition, the system of halal certification and halal assurance system which have been established by LPPOM MUI have also been well accepted and adopted by 48 international halal certification bodies, such as halal certification bodies in the ASEAN region, Australia, Europe and even America and Africa.

In this regard, as revealed by the Chairman of MUI, H. Amidhan, MUI has made a list of overseas halal certification bodies which have been recognized by MUI.

Combining Science and Islamic Shariah

Lukmanul Hakim described again, they give the appreciation after looking at the performance of MUI which can combine the two aspects of science and Islamic shariah at the same time simultaneously, so that it becomes a halal assurance system which is proven scientifically and strengthened by the shariah propositions in the realm of Islamic texts, the Fiqhiyyah studies.

For example, Lukmanul Hakim argued about alcohol, as the dominant content in beverages, the alcoholic drinks, which is prohibited explicitly by the Islamic texts of shariah propositions. At first, the ulamas forbid alcoholic beverages, which through a qiyash or analogous method, it is comparable with khamar which has been prohibited explicitly. And hence, all alcohol is forbidden.

Categorization of Alcohol

Then, LPPOM MUI conducts an intensive studies and research. In fact, the result shows that alcohol itself can be grouped into three main categories. Firstly, the alcohol contained in khamar, the beverage or alcoholic drink which is strictly forbidden in the texts. Secondly, the alcohol contained in many types of fruits and food, such as durian, or even rice; and thirdly, the alcohol which is made synthetically through an industrial processes and used to wash any tools and equipments, to be sterile and hygienic.

Through this categorization, the ulamas in the Fatwa Committee of MUI then determine that the alcohol in khamar, the beverage or alcoholic drink is distinctively forbidden, in accordance with the provisions of the shariah texts, while the alcohol contained in fruits such as durian, and foods such as rice, are not forbidden to be consumed. And the synthetic alcohol can be used to wash industrial tools and equipments. It is not categorized as khamar which is defiling filth or dirty. (Translated into English by Usman Effendi AS).

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Being able to choose Halal when it comes to cosmetic purchases is still a relatively new concept with the vast majority of brands yet to celebrate their fifth birthday. However, with the worlds Muslim population set to grow from the present 23% to around 26.4% over the next twenty years (Pew Forum on Religion and Public Life) it looks like this is one section that has plenty more growing to do.

Last year (Halal Cosmetics – A New Horizon) I took a look at the science behind Halal cosmetics in a bid to understand and help communicate this very specific set of requirements to the wider cosmetic industry and its customers. The main points being:

• No alcohol (Ethanol) wherever possible. Some Muslims are happy to accept alcohol as an integral part of a fragrance product as these products can be applied to clothing and as such are unlikely to permeate the body. However, alcohol in general skin-care is less accepted and many Halal brands use alcohol (ethanol) free as a selling point.
• No Pork Derivatives. Glycerine, gelatine, collagen, Keratin and Elastin are the main culprits here. While much of the glycerine used in cosmetics these days is vegetable derived (usually a bi-product of palm oil production) some meat-derived glycerine still makes it into the cosmetics market. This is a no-go for Halal brand.
• No animal derived ingredients. This takes the above statement one step further and should include ingredients that while not animal derived themselves may have been prepared in animal-derived media (such as petri dishes). This also brings in the ingredients Hyaluronic acid, squalane, Chitin and Chitosan although again, due to a general dislike of animal derived ingredients these are now available as non-animal derived alternatives.

While this looks like it could be adhered to quite easily on the surface, the supply chain traceability required of Halal cosmetics and the attention to the detail of the preparation of each ingredient make for quite a challenge.

Take GM crops for example, in December 2010 a conference held in Penang, Malaysia (The International Workshop for Islamic Scholars “Agri-biotechnology: Sharia Compliance” agreed that GM crops could be Halal just so long as the ingredients used to develop them are from Halal sources. This position has since been fiercely debated especially by UK based Green group “The Islamic Foundation for Ecology and Environmental Sciences” who have concerns about the way GM crops undermine God’s creation and can potentially damage the surrounding ecosystem. So to date, GM is officially ‘in’ although the market seems to be opting out.

But this challenge of scientific and marketing complexity is being met by many entrepreneurial spirits who are rising to the challenge and filing this developing gap in the market.

Saaf Pure Skincare based in the UK is one of the global success stories and now sell in over thirteen countries. Having not spoken directly to Saaf I can only report on what I see on their website and from there I see a brand that complies not only with Halal certification but also with Organic, Cruelty-Free and Vegan standards. In addition the companies are vocal about their formulations being 100% natural, vegetarian, alcohol-free, non-irradiated and free from Genetically Modified Organisms. They also remind the consumer that their products are only tested on willing humans and contain only ingredients needed to fulfill the products function – no fillers, no added perfume. If this Halal brand is setting the benchmark then the buzz word for the segment is ‘Purity’.

Other Internationally recognised brands meeting the Halal requirements are the Australian-made Inika Minerals who have just broken the back of the UK market to become one of Australia’s most successful Organic make-up exports, Canadian based One-Pure Cosmetics with their sophisticated anti-ageing skincare range and UK based Hussana with their low-priced skin and hair care options.

At a local level in Malaysia, the cosmetic/Natural health market has seen a number of Halal breakthroughs in terms of producing neutriceutical beauty products that are gelatine free, anti-bacterial mouthwashes that are alcohol-free and pharmaceutical base creams that are guaranteed to be free from animal derivatives. Again, it is quite possible that these products are already available in the wider market but the emphasis on fulfilling the ethical and practical (paper trail) requirements of the Halal market combine to make these developments significant.

So far it looks like Halal cosmetics fit very neatly (at least on a scientific level) alongside other Natural, Environmentally conscious, pure and animal-testing free cosmetic ranges. So do we need Halal personal care?

To answer that we need to think more about the lifestyle of the people for whom these products are aimed.

While not all Muslim women cover their hair, for those that do there are practical implications. The hair can become more greasy, lank and hard to manage. These facts have not gone un-noticed and have been picked up on by global hair-care giant Unilever who have just launched an advertising campaign aimed at hijab wearing women. Their new Sunsilk formulation promises to help revitalize the scalp of hijab wearers with natural lime while gently addressing greasiness and dandruff made worse by religious observance. Their tag line “the first shampoo for covered hair” is as smart as it is true – build the need, fill the need.

Other uniquely Muslim requirements include products that are pure and clean enough, without any perfumed smell, to be used during the Hajj or Umrah pilgrimage to Mecca. During this time it is essential that cleanliness and personal hygiene are not confused with a celebration of objectified beauty. Keeping it simple is the key. The same goes for daily prayer rituals which require the wudu or ritual cleaning to take place before prayer can begin. As far as cosmetic choices go, this makes the use of hard-to-remove or semi-permanent products most inconvenient.

So, to sum up, it would seem that the science that supports the Halal ethos is as well set as any other certification process. There are some areas for further clarification and discussion (such as GMO) but a general agreement on direction and interpretation has been reached. However, when it comes to translating that into lifestyle-based solutions there still seems room for innovation. Muslim men, women and children want to buy products that tick not just the practical but also the emotional box, they want to feel a connection, they want to see themselves in the product, and they want to be truly represented. For me, the future success of Halal cosmetic has less to do with the science and more to do with winning the hearts and minds of this diverse and ethical consumer group. As the best way to do that is to listen, I think the time has come to pull up a chair, put on the kettle and start to get to know our Muslim friends and neighbours.

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The context: Muslim women choose to cover their hair as part of their Islamic duty. Covering hair for long periods of time can lead to consequences like greasy hair. Typical shampoo adverts focus on the outward benefits like ‘shine’ rather than addressing concerns which are specific to women who cover their hair.

The concept: TV adverts focus on showing  women specifically with their hair covered. The voice over explains the dilemma for these women: “When you cover your hair all day long, sweat and sebum starts to develop on your scalp which is the main cause of dandruff and irritation.” A hair expert then explains how Sunsilk has created a special formula using lime extract to control sweat and sebum and keep the scalp clean and healthy. The advert closes with the very specific line “1^st shampoo for covered hair.”

The campaign: This was run as TV commercials in Pakistan. Similar concepts were used in other Muslim countries also such as Indonesia.

What we liked: Sunsilk has realised that there are specific needs that Muslim women who observe the headscarf have, and speaks directly to their concerns. The imagery they use of women who are covered means that their target audience can relate and will immediately be drawn into the advert. It avoids using similar language to other traditional shampoo ads, and highlights their innovative approach with the strapline “1^st shampoo for covered hair.” Along with building confidence by using an expert, they also appeal to the Muslim consumer’s attraction towards natural products with the use of lime within the product recipe.

Ad Critque: Ogilvy Noor

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